What is the difference between the alloys you use?
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Sterling silver
Sterling silver is commonly stamped with 925, meaning that it is an alloy where 92.5% is fine silver and the rest is copper. There is another alloy in Germany that is popular which is the 935 silver alloy. The 935 alloy consists of 93.5% is silver, with the rest copper. It is not an official term, but to differentiate between 925 and 935, and 935 Argentium, I will call the German 935 alloy Sterling+ on my website.
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Argentium silver
Argentium silver was developed in the UK in the 1990s, and contains ca. 1.2% germanium, which makes it more resistant to tarnishing than traditional sterling silve.
It may also suit some people who experience reactions to sterling silver, although it is not suitable for those with a silver allergy.
Argentium has a slightly whiter appearance and is softer than traditional sterling silver. It requires different working techniques, and components such as earring posts and backings need to be made by hand.
The additional material and craftsmanship involved make Argentium jewellery slightly more expensive.
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14 and 18 ct Gold (or more)
14ct yellow gold (585) contains 58.5% pure gold, with the remainder made up of other metals, mainly silver and copper. It is harder than 18ct gold, but its higher copper content may make it less suitable for people sensitive to certain metals. I would not recommend it for fresh piercings.
18ct yellow gold (750) contains 75% pure gold, with the remainder consisting mainly of silver and copper. Its lower copper content makes it my preferred choice for gold earrings, particularly for those with sensitive skin.
For certain projects, higher carat golds such as 20ct (83% gold) and 22ct (92% gold) are also possible. These have a richer gold content but are considerably softer, so their suitability depends on the design and intended use. They are particularly interesting for special pieces and traditional goldsmithing techniques.
Most people are familiar with sterling silver (925), but there are several other silver alloys, each with its own characteristics. I've always been drawn to silver and lighter-coloured metals, appreciating their versatility and natural beauty. Although I love incorporating gold accents into my work, silver remains my favourite material.
Different alloys have different strengths, and choosing the right one depends on the design and how the jewellery will be worn. Traditional sterling silver (925) is relatively hard and durable, making it particularly suitable for pieces such as bracelets and rings. Alloys with a higher silver content tend to be slightly whiter, heavier and softer, while Argentium offers excellent tarnish resistance but requires particular working and hardening techniques.
I'm continually exploring the possibilities of these materials and finding the best applications for each. For now, I mainly use Argentium for earrings and pendants, while sterling silver remains a versatile choice for many other designs.
I also love the idea of giving silver a place in contemporary jewellery beyond everyday adornment. It can be a beautiful material for wedding and commitment rings, too. In the future, I'd like to explore combining silver with gold using traditional techniques such as Korean Keum-Boo, where fine gold is bonded to the surface of silver. It's a lovely way to bring the two metals together without relying on plating or vermeil.
